What is Phulkari and Kasuti Embroidery?

 What is Phulkari and Kasuti Embroidery 

Ø  Phulkari meaning flower work

Ø  It is originated from Punjab north western part of India and Pakistan.

Ø  It indicates the shawl that was loomed and embroidered.

Ø  This tradition is mostly associated with Sikh heritage but it was also share with Hindus and Muslims

Different types of phulkari

•       Thirma

•       Darshan Dwar

•       Sainchi Phulkari

•       Vari-da-bagh

•       Bawan Bagh (or Bawan Phulkari)

•       Chope

•       Surajmukhi

•       Kaudi Bagh

•       Panchranga Bagh

•       Meenakari Bagh (or "Ikka Bagh")

Motifs

Color Threads used

•       The bright colors are always preferred when it comes to phulkari because it referes to flowers and garden.

•        The main colors used are yellow, red, orange, pink, and garden.

•       The most interesting part of phulkari is that, no different shades are used for shading purpose; rather its done with the horizontal, diagonal and vertical stiches.

•       The shiny thread reflects different shades In different direction.

•       The embroidery was made on the wrong side of the khaddar with a thread of floss silk called pat.

•        Pat was red-coloured to symbolize passion, white for purity, golden or yellow for desire and abundance, green for nature and fertility, blue for serenity, purple for a symbiosis between red's energy and blue's calm, orange for a mix of desire and divine energy.

Fabrics

•       Embroidery work was invariably made on a plain cotton fabric (khaddar) whose thread was manually spinned, loomed and dyed with natural pigments.

•        Khaddar could be of four colours, white being given to mature women or widows while red was associated with youth

•        Black and blue colours were kept for everyday worn shawls as they prevented from revealing stains and dirt.

•        The complete khaddar was always made of two or three stripes which were approximately 50cm wide.

•       Muslin fabrics are also used.

Stitches

•       Darning stitch was the most commonly used technique to make phulkari.

•       In order to create an unusual design or to border the khaddar, some other stitches like-

•       Herringbone stitch,

•       Running stitch,

•       Button hole stitch,

•       Chain stitch

•       Stem stitch