Introduction
To
weave a fabric on loom, forming a shed is necessary. The tappet shedding is the
simplest one. It can be used to weave plain, twill etc. Later, the dobby was
invented. It can be used to weave more complicated weaves, such as diamond,
diaper and some compound weaves.
Jacquard design |
But
dobby shedding can not fit the requirement of large pattern which need not only
a small group warp threads lifting in same way, but also the single thread
lifting as well. See Fig. above. So another loom is to be created to satisfy
the demand.
Jacquard machine
and Jacquard shedding
1: hooks
2:
knife
Jacquard |
3:knife frame
4: neck cord
5: rod
6:
grade
7: horizontal needle
8: needle broad
9:
cylinder
10: spring box
11: spring
12: card
The principles of the Jacquard shedding are described as
below:
Ø The warp threads are lifted by hooks 1, which are arranged in rows.
Ø The hook is made of wire. The top
bent part of hook can be engaged by the knife 2.
Ø The knives are mounted in the
knife frame 3, which reciprocates vertically once every pick.
Ø Each hook is connected with horizontal needle 7, which can deviate the
hook to the left.
Ø The right-hand ends of the needles protrude at the side of the machine,
passing through the holes of needle board 8, which holds the ends of the
needles in the proper position against the holes of cylinder 9. The left-hand
end of the needles is positioned in the spring box 10. The spring 11 is
intended to return the needle to initial position after the needle has been
deviated by the card 12.
Ø If there is no hole in the card
against the needle, the card presses the needle, moves the needle and shifting
the hook to the left. The hook will not be engaged by the lifting knife. The
warp thread remains in the lower position, forming the bottom part of the shed.
Ø If there is a hole in the card opposite the needle, it is not deflected.
The hook remains over the knife and at the next moment, the knife grasps it
while going up, and lifts it. As a result, the harness cord and the warp thread
are lifted. The warp thread forms the top part of the shed.
Ø The number of holes in the card determines the number of warp threads to
be lifted in the particular shed, when this card operates.
Ø And the number of cards in the
chain equals the number of weft threads in the repeat.
1 Comments
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